Stone Settings without Prongs

About this course

This demo-centered virtual course at Metalwerx School for Jewelry will focus on two distinct stone setting processes – the first being bead setting and the second being hammer setting on a thick walled tube. Starting with bead setting, the first session will guide students on how to expertly hold and use each unique tool, on top of learning the process for this delicate stone setting technique, which allows for the inclusion of smaller, less expensive stones to act as highlights on nearly any design surface.

The second session will show students how to first measure out and then fabricate a thick walled tube, before moving on to cutting a seat and hammer setting a round faceted stone. This type of setting is ideal for custom engagement and wedding rings as the thick wall provides a clean visual frame and emboldens the stone to act as a focal point, while giving the piece a secure and structurally sturdy setting suitable for daily wear.

LEVEL:

Intermediate and above, with ‘Jewelry2 skills‘ required

LOCATION:

Virtual – Virtual – Eastern Time Zone

DETAILS:

Dates: APRIL 11 & 18th (Weekly on Tuesday)
When: 4-6pm (EST)
Where: Virtual Online
Length: 2 days
Tuition: $150

MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES

The following supplies will be used for course demonstrations and objectives. A suggested item and/or vendor has been provided below for reference. Click the vendor name to be redirected to a page where you can view the item. The quantities needed for each item are listed first. If ordering, please be aware that some items may come in larger quantities than needed for this class. We recommend not opening an item’s packaging until the day of the workshop. Student participation during or in-between class sessions is not required – observers are welcome.

Metal/raw materials (students should have/make 2 completed satin finish ring bands if they wish to complete workshop objectives):

2 x 14g ring bands – flat profile – 6mm wide – copper is fine
6 x 2.5mm CZ (Rio Grande)
1 x 5.0mm CZ (Rio Grande)
1 x 18g sterling strip – 5mm wide x 15.5mm long (Rio Grande)
small amount of easy and hard solder (Rio Grande)

A soldering setup:

1 x fireproof torch area – steel baking sheet will work (Amazon)
1 x Solderite™ pad or fire bricks (Rio Grande)
1 x torch – Smith mini or Silversmith (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
1 x #0 or #1 torch tip – if getting Silversmith (Rio Grande)
1 x soldering tweezers (Rio Grande)
1 x soldering pick (Rio Grande)
1 x 3rd arm (Rio Grande)
1 x paste flux (Rio Grande)
1 x copper tongs – for pickle (Rio Grande)
pickle – for non-ferrous metals (Rio Grande)
crock pot or tempered glass container – for pickle (Amazon)
tempered glass container or sink – for quenching and rinsing
small brush – for flux

Hand tools:

1 x half round file – #2 or #1 cut (Rio Grande)
1 x basic plier set (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
1 x jewelers saw (Rio Grande)
1 x pack saw blades – 2/0 and 4/0 (Rio Grande)
1 x bench pin (Rio Grande)
1 x ring clamp or other clamping device (Rio Grande)
1 x rotary tool – flexshaft or micro-motor (Rio Grande)
1 x 2.5mm setting bur (Rio Grande or Otto Frei)
1 x 5.0mm setting bur (Rio Grande or Otto Frei)
1 x 2.3mm bud bur (Rio Grande or Otto Frei)
1 x beading tool set (Rio Grande or Otto Frei)
1 x 5/8″ felt buffs – mounted (Rio Grande)
1 x slotted mandrel – 3/32″ shank or paint stirs (Rio Grande)
1 x center punch (Rio Grande or Otto Frei)
drill bit – #51 or 1.7mm (Rio Grande)
abrasive paper – 220 to 600 grits (Amazon or Amazon)
magnification – MegaViews, optivisors, 10x loupe, etc.
good light source
lubricant – burlife or beeswax
tripoli and red rouge
fine point Sharpie marker
tooth brush
small amount of sticky wax or beeswax
3″-4″ x 1/8″ rod – for wax

Forming tools:

1 x bezel forming block with punch (Rio Grande)
1 x chasing hammer (Rio Grande)
1 x rawhide or plastic mallet (Rio Grande)

You will need a flat ended punch for hammer setting. The instructor will demo how to make one using a 4″ x 1/8″-1/4″ piece of tools steel square stock, files, and a torch to heat treat the steel, so you can make your own or purchase one.